Tessa Quinn
Fish tank owners will inevitably have to deal with a sick fish at some point. To prevent the spread of disease to other fish in the tank, it is important to isolate the sick fish in a hospital tank. While hospital tanks are generally easy to set up and maintain, they can be stressful for sick fish. One of the challenges of maintaining a hospital tank is keeping it cycled. Cycling a hospital tank can be tricky because fish are usually only in the tank for a short period of time, and some medications can remove the beneficial bacteria that help to break down harmful chemicals like ammonia. However, there are several ways to cycle a hospital tank instantly, such as using a filter or filter media from an established tank, or keeping a sponge filter running in the main tank.
How to Keep a Hospital Tank Cycled
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Water | Use water from the original tank to decrease stress for the fish. |
| Temperature | Use an in-tank thermometer to monitor and control the water temperature. |
| Filtration | Use a filter or filter media from an established tank to introduce beneficial bacteria. |
| Beneficial Bacteria | Beneficial bacteria convert harmful ammonia into less harmful nitrite and then into nitrates. |
| Ammonia | Keep a close eye on ammonia levels as some medications will remove the biological filtration. |
| Water Changes | Do partial water changes daily to prevent the build-up of ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. |
| Quarantine | Quarantine new fish for at least seven days to prevent the spread of disease. |
| Size | A 10-gallon tank is a sufficient size for a hospital tank. |
| Substrate | Keep the bottom of the tank bare to facilitate easy cleaning and prevent the build-up of bacteria. |
| Decorations | Provide a few plants or an overturned pot to give fish a place to hide. |
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What You'll Learn
Quarantine the sick fish
Quarantining sick fish is an important step in keeping your fishy friends happy and healthy. Firstly, you need to set up a quarantine tank. This separate aquarium is used to temporarily hold ailing fish that need a quiet environment to heal. It is recommended to have a 5-30 gallon tank with a lid or glass top to prevent fish from jumping out. The size of the tank depends on the size and quantity of fish being treated. For example, Betta fish can be treated in a gallon of water, whereas cichlids or larger saltwater fish will need 5 gallons or more.
The quarantine tank should be set up in a different room away from the main tank to avoid cross-contamination. It should be filtered with air-driven filters such as sponge filters, and/or internal filters. A small air pump should be used to power the internal filters, and an airstone can also be added. Do not use carbon or chemical filtration as it will remove the medication. The water in the quarantine tank should be treated with a water conditioner such as aquaLife Complete, or aquaLife Procondition if using copper.
Provide shelter for the fish such as plastic ornaments, plants, and large PVC pipe fittings. Do not use gravel, calcium-based rocks, or anything that could absorb medication or be hard to clean. A thermometer is also needed to ensure the water is at the correct temperature. Lights are best left off during treatment but can be used for periodic viewing of the fish.
Once the quarantine tank is set up, you can move your sick fish to it. If you know the disease, treat the fish with the specific medication for that illness and follow the manufacturer's instructions. If you are unsure of the disease, you can treat the fish with a quarantine medication trio, which contains an antibiotic, antifungal, and anti-parasitic blend. Alternatively, you can use aquarium salt, which is a cheap and effective treatment for bacteria, fungus, and external parasites, although it is not safe for all fish and plants. You can also add vitamins and appetite stimulants to the water to prevent nutritional deficiencies in sick fish.
The length of time for quarantining ranges from 2-4 weeks, depending on whether you use medication or not. For preventative treatment, the quarantine period is at least 2 weeks. Make sure to do daily water changes to prevent the build-up of ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates, which can harm the fish.
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Monitor ammonia levels
Ammonia is poisonous to fish, so it is critical to monitor ammonia levels in your hospital tank. If you already have an aquarium, you likely have a test kit to test the water. If not, you can purchase an API master liquid test kit, which is very accurate and highly recommended.
If you notice ammonia in your hospital tank, you should do a water change as soon as possible. However, keep in mind that it takes about four hours for the badge on the test kit to reset and show a current, accurate reading. So, if you test the water immediately after a water change and the badge still shows the presence of ammonia, it may be due to the badge not having reset yet.
To prevent ammonia build-up in your hospital tank, you can add a filter or filter media from an established aquarium. This will introduce beneficial bacteria that can convert the ammonia into less harmful nitrite and then into nitrates. Alternatively, you can keep a sponge filter running in an established tank, which will also colonize with the necessary bacteria.
Daily water changes are also essential in preventing ammonia build-up, as they ensure that ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates cannot accumulate to dangerous levels.
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Use water from the original tank
Using water from the original tank is a good way to reduce the stress your fish experience when moving them to a hospital tank. It is recommended to use as much water from the original tank as possible when filling the hospital tank. This method will also help to maintain the water temperature.
It is important to note that some medications added to the hospital tank may remove the beneficial bacteria from the water, which can lead to a build-up of ammonia. Ammonia is poisonous to fish, so it is critical to monitor ammonia levels and perform water changes as soon as ammonia is detected. To avoid this issue, you can use a filter or filter media from an established aquarium in your hospital tank to instantly cycle it and maintain the necessary bacteria.
If you are using a quarantine tank, it is generally recommended to use separate tools, nets, etc. to avoid cross-contamination between the tanks. However, if you are not concerned about cross-contamination, you can keep a second filter running in your main tank and then transfer it to the hospital tank when needed.
It is worth noting that hospital tanks are challenging to keep cycled because fish are typically only in them for a short period. If you are treating the fish with medication, it may be unnecessary to cycle the hospital tank at all, and you can simply change the water and medication regularly.
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Keep the tank bare-bottomed
Keeping the tank bare-bottomed means removing the gravel or substrate from the tank. This is recommended for hospital tanks because it is easier to see and suck up any food or waste that settles at the bottom of the tank. This is important for maintaining pristine water conditions, which is necessary for certain fish, such as Discus. Bare-bottomed tanks are also easier to clean and can prevent fish from accidentally ingesting the substrate.
However, a con of bare-bottomed tanks is that they may appear less aesthetically pleasing to some. They can look sterile and unstimulating, with fewer biological processes occurring. Additionally, some fish may become disoriented without a substrate, although this can be countered by placing something black at the bottom of the tank. Bare-bottomed tanks also offer less room for beneficial bacteria to grow, as the substrate provides an environment for beneficial anaerobic bacteria.
Despite this, it is important to note that most of the bacteria in a tank with a substrate are in the filter anyway. You can still easily grow live plants in a bare-bottomed tank by choosing plants that don't need to be planted, such as hornwort, anacharis, Java fern, Java moss, or Anubias. Decorations can also be added to make the tank more visually appealing and provide cover for fish, such as fake caves and fake plants.
Ultimately, the decision to keep a hospital tank bare-bottomed or not is a matter of personal preference and depends on the specific needs of the fish being treated. Some fish may benefit from a more natural-looking environment, while others may require the pristine water conditions that a bare-bottomed tank can provide.
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Treat the whole tank
If one of your fish falls ill, it is important to keep an eye out for the early symptoms of disease to prevent the disease from spreading to other fish in the tank. If you notice any symptoms, set up your hospital tank as soon as possible. In some cases, such as with external parasitic infections like Ich or Velvet, the entire tank will need to be treated. Treating the whole tank can help prevent the spread of disease and reduce the risk of antibiotic resistance.
To treat the whole tank, you will need to set up a hospital tank and move all the fish to it. Use as much water from the original tank as possible to reduce stress for your fish. You should also use an in-tank thermometer to monitor and control the water temperature. It is recommended to keep the hospital tank bare-bottomed, without gravel or other substrates, to facilitate easy cleaning and prevent the build-up of bacteria. Provide a few fake plants or an overturned terra cotta pot to give your fish places to hide.
In addition to the standard hospital tank setup, there are a few extra steps you can take to ensure the tank is cycled. One option is to keep a group of hardy fish, such as Zebra Danios, in the hospital tank until it is needed. Regular maintenance and water changes should be performed on this tank as you would with any other tank. When the time comes to use the hospital tank, simply move the healthy fish to another tank or container with appropriate water conditions.
Another option is to keep a sponge filter running in your main tank. This sponge will colonize with the bacteria required to keep a tank cycled. When you need to use the hospital tank, simply move the sponge filter over. You can also add bioballs from your sump to a HOB Millennium filter and then put them back in your sump when you're done. Additionally, you can keep a second filter in your main tank and move it to the hospital tank when needed.
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Frequently asked questions
A hospital tank is used to isolate and treat a sick fish, to prevent the spread of disease to other fish in the main tank. It is also used to quarantine new fish.
A hospital tank should be set up as quickly as possible when a fish falls ill. It should be filled with water from the original tank to reduce stress on the fish. It should also be equipped with a thermometer to monitor water temperature and medication if required.
Hospital tanks are difficult to keep cycled as fish are only in them for a short time. To keep a tank cycled, you can use a filter or filter media from an established aquarium to introduce beneficial bacteria. Alternatively, keep a group of hardy fish, such as Zebra Danios, in the tank until it is needed.
